Jan 14 2012

Plastic Welding Clinic

 

Perhaps you were out paddling on a river, nailed a sharp rock and put a crack in your boat.  What now?  Bitumen tape or Gorilla tape is probably the fix to finish your run, but is there a better long-term solution?  Perhaps!

 

The topic of our last Winter Clinic was plastic welding.  We learned that it’s not really rocket science!  There are some guidelines to keep in mind when determining whether a repair is appropriate, and some tricks that might make your repair a longer-term solution.

 

The first consideration is the plastic from which your boat was constructed.  Crosslink plastic, as used on many Jackson kayaks and older boats cannot be welded.  To be appropriate for welding, your boat needs to be constructed from linear plastic, as are most modern roto-molded polyethylene kayaks.

 

The second consideration is the extent and location of the crack.  Welding cracks in areas of substantial wear or stress will probably not be a viable long-term solution.  A weld might make the boat functional for friends to use on those easier runs or for use in the pool, but not for that class 4 or 5 waterfall run.  The ideal crack to weld is a small crack in a low-stress, low-wear area.  We can all dream, right?

 

What do you need to weld a linear plastic boat?  Not much!  Solutions for welding guns can be a hot air tool like the $250.00 Weldy Plus that we use at Alder Creek, or as simple as a Wagner Hot Air gun for $29.99.  What advantage do you get with a gun like the Weldy?  The ability to carefully control the heat vs. the high/low setting on an inexpensive gun.  Whichever solution you choose, an attachment like a wide slot or condenser nozzle will give you more control and precision.

You can purchase generic rods of HDPE, (high density polyethylene), but a better solution is to see if your kayak’s manufacturer can provide rods or to cut your own from a boat from the same manufacturer.  Often times enough material can be cut from the inside of the cockpit coaming to get a rod or two.  This also provides the advantage of a good color match.

 

Other tools to consider are a good scraper to clean up and bevel both edges of the crack, and scrape some of the excess plastic after welding, and a roller, or type of tool to put pressure on the fresh weld as it cools.  Some people also choose to drill a hole at either end of the crack prior to welding.  The logic behind this is that it may keep the crack from continuing to travel.

 

As far as the actual process of the weld, a picture, or in this case, a video is worth a thousand words.  Liquid Logic has an outstanding video on the actual process, which can be seen at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bos4lfOA3k

Boat Welding

Hopefully this is one of those skills you never find a need to use!  If you do crack a boat and don’t want to try repairing it yourself, bring it down to Alder Creek and we can help you determine the suitability of welding and even repair it for you.


Nov 28 2011

Outfitting a Whitewater Canoe

***Get It Together***

FIRST things first: LIST all of your materials.

Start with a game plan! Embrace your inner artist and draw the boat with the outfitting you want. This will become both your shopping- and check-list. Do you have all of the D-rings, daisy chains, flotation, drybags, shock cord, static line, clips and hardware you need? DON’T FORGET to include things like adhesive, sandpaper, cleaning solvent and protective wear.
List

COLLECT all of you materials.

I’m sure you have good lighting and great tunes, but go through your list. Is it all there?

Check List

***Don’t Eat The Paste***

TIME FOR YOUR APPROPRIATE WORK SPACE AND SAFETY GEAR. Your work space should have ample ventilation and light. Be aware of the temperature as it will affect drying times. Safety gear may consist of gloves, glasses and a mask. 

PLACE and TRACE your odds and ends.

Use pencil! Because it is easy to erase. If everything is correctly marked, right where you want it, you can embolden your pencil lines with a marker and start prepping the surfaces.
trace1

trace2

PREP the surfaces.

Use your coarse-grit sandpaper and scuff up the vinyl backs of your daisychains and D-rings AS WELL AS the destination surfaces in the boat. This greatly increases your working surface area, and it will make for much stronger bonds. Use a rag with a cleaning solvent (we used methyl ethyl ketone, aka MEK) to wipe all of your sanded surfaces, boat and bits.

sand

wipe

 

STICK to it!

Get your glue and something to spread it with. Foam brushes work well for application. For gluing VINYL-on-vinyl (D-rings and daisy chains to Royalex), use something like Vinabond. For gluing FOAM-on-vinyl (knee pads and thigh blocks), use a contact cement like Mondo Bond. IMPORTANT: TAKE CAREFULL NOTE HERE: You will apply two coats of adhesive to each surface. The first, thin coat, on each surface, MUST DRY COMPLETELY. Allow your second coats to get tacky, and then join the two surfaces. Carefully lay large pieces, slowly and evenly, minimizing and working out any air pockets.

place

Rock and ROLL.

Use your fingers to “stretch” vinyl pads into the perfect place. Then, using an even can or rubber roller, roll over the whole patch. Get the perimeter as well as the center of the patch. You don’t want edges peeling up.

can roll

roller roll

 

***Cage Match***

MARK.

Decide how far apart you’d like your lines. Remember, the cages are there to hold your flotation in! 3-4″ between each lacing works nicely. Mark where you want to lace the cages, just below and along the gunwale, stopping inline with your daisy chain. It is good to leave a little room between your hole and the gunwales. 0.25-0.5″ should be ample. Double check that your marks line up with each other!

mark cage

DRILL.

Put some holes in that boat!

drill

TIE.

Lace your cage! Start with an excess of rope. You can always trim it at the end. Tie a nice stopper knot, like a double overhand, and put some tension in your line.

tie

tied

***Put A Bow On It***

Clean up your boat, and get it out there! If you have errant permanent marker lines in your boat, wipe remaining lines with some MEK on a rag.

There are all sorts of things we can do to customize our boats for performance, comfort or looks. On this boat, we also replaced a rotten yoke, added painter lines, drilled drain holes in the deck plates and rigged a custom dry-/floatbag setup for the center. Other bells and whistles you may be interested in are skidplates and footpegs.

See our finished product:

yoke

ackc shot

other

frodo

wen bags

final


Nov 22 2011

Take out closed at NW Lake of the White Salmon

As the river continues to eat away at the river bed more interesting things are happening. Pacific Corp is going to have to pull these old pilings out pretty quick. My guess is they were from an old bridge before the dam was built.

I got this email today:

Please be advised that White Salmon River conditions near the Northwestern Lake Bridge and Northwestern Lake Park are changing almost every day. The river has cut it’s bed down approximately 12 feet and this cut continues to move upstream. It has also revealed previously unknown hazards within the river course (see attached picture). The river bank at this location is very steep and not conducive to raft take out. PacifiCorp and JR Merit are monitoring the site and once it looks like the course has stabilized we can assess adjusting the slopes for boater take out. Until then and per PacifiCorp’s Recreation Management Plan that states “River conditions and the former reservoir will be monitored after the dam breach and, if conditions develop that pose a threat to public safety, the boater take-out at the park will be temporarily closed until conditions are deemed safe by JR Merit and PacifiCorp Energy. Notification of closures will be made to the U.S. Forest Service.” PacifiCorp will temporarily close the ramp until further notice. We have notified by phone message Sue Baker of the U.S. Forest Service.

Thanks, Todd

Todd Olson
Director, Compliance
PacifiCorp


Nov 18 2011

Condit Dam and White Salmon River 11-18-2011

Today we got a tour of the dam and the opportunity to see the project from another perspective. The river continues to eat away at the debris deposited in the lake bed. Things that most impress me are that the river looking downstream at mid lake has dropped the river about 30 feet in 17 days, the water level is down a good 10 feet into gravel/rock deposits at NW lake park and that when the coffer dam comes out there will be even more lowering of the river level/channel in the lower river. There is an incredible amount of debris in the lower river at the mouth that has not washed into the Columbia, the Steelhead fishery at the mouth of the White Salmon is currently a mud bath about 3″ deep. No migrating fish will be stopping here to enjoy the cool fresh water anytime soon.


Nov 14 2011

Dry Suit Repair Nov. 14, 2011 7 pm @ the Boathouse

FREE clinic…
Drysuit Care & Repair by Karl Kohagen from Kokatat
Monday 7-8pm @ Alder Creek’s Boathouse
1515 SE Water St

Aside from your boat, your drysuit is likely the most expensive piece of gear you will own. This time of year, it’s just as essential as your paddle or pfd. Be good to your suit…it could save your life.

Karl Kohagen with Kokatat will be our special gue st presenter. Feel free to bring in your old suit for a little TLC straight from the expert.
Want More Information? Click Here!

No Sign-Ups Required!
Cost: Free
Clinic is Located @ Alder Creek’s Boathouse Location
1515 SE Water St.
Portland, OR 97214
503-285-1819


Oct 28 2011

Condit Dam – White Salmon 48 hours later

Here are a few more photos from the same places I took them on Wednesday. A large amout of sediment has moved below the dam and old trees and some basalt bedrock is starting to show in the muddy water.


Oct 26 2011

Condit Dam Has a Hole in it!

Here is a sequence of photos from just upstream of the dam shot at 2 pm, 2 hours after the breach. The smell was very earthy, the scouring quite significant and the amount of scouring left for the river to do quite significant.

Today is an interesting day in the history of free running rivers. The White Salmon river is now back in the club. After 20 years of negotiations Pacific Corp decided it was time to let the salmon and steelhead swim upstream and the kayakers and rafters float downstream. There was a big party to celebrate the day. The process employeed is called “Blow and Go”. They blow a hole in the bottom of the dam and hope all the upstream sediment washes away quickly with the big rush of water.

This is a link to Pacific Corps website:

Here is a time lapse off KGW


Oct 11 2011

Lumpy Waters 2011

Lumpy is finally here! We are going to have an epic weekend of paddling, parties and great people.

www.lumpywater.com

October 14, 15 & 16, 2011 Pacific City Oregon

Sponsored By:
Alder Creek Kayak & Canoe


Sep 30 2011

Fall Sale thru October 10th

Everything – new and used
On Sale!

Thru Oct 10th

We still have plenty of Demo and Rental

kayaks, canoes, SUP, pfd’s, paddles for sale.


Sep 16 2011

Coaches Corner – Paul Kuthe – Hand of God Rescue

Paul Kuthe is the Program Manager at Portland, Ore.’s Alder Creek Kayak and Canoe, and a new-school leader in sea and whitewater kayak instruction. In this episode of C&K’s Virtual Coach, Kuthe covers an important sea kayak rescue technique to add to your bag of tricks when paddling with a partner, or teaching one to roll.